Day 12 of our European adventure, and today we’ve travelled from Innsbruck into Germany and arrived in the beautiful area of Berchtesgaden.
It’s been another one of those touring days where you get a bit of everything: a repaired motorhome, a slightly stressful journey, beautiful scenery, a stunning lake, a bit of shopping, and the promise of something pretty special tomorrow.
And, thankfully, the motorhome is now running beautifully.
The Tyre Saga Finally Comes to an End
After yesterday’s discovery that something wasn’t quite right with one of our tyres, we found a fantastic garage and got it sorted.
The tyre had actually started separating from the carcass, something we simply hadn't spotted despite travelling nearly 1,000 miles. Looking at the old tyre afterwards, it was obvious that it could have become a serious problem if we’d continued driving on it.
Once the new tyre was fitted, the difference was incredible.
All those mysterious vibrations and rattles had disappeared. The motorhome was suddenly running smoothly, and we could finally relax a little. It was one of those situations where you think, How on earth did we not notice that earlier?
Still, we’re very glad we found it when we did.
Innsbruck to Berchtesgaden
The journey itself was around 120 miles, although with the tyre repair, shopping and various stops, it took us a good part of the day.
One of the interesting things about this route was crossing the borders between Austria and Germany several times. It felt like we were constantly popping from one country into another.
We eventually made it into Berchtesgaden, our fifth country of the trip after France, Switzerland, Liechtenstein and Austria.
The campsite / motorhome park up is certainly compact, though! There are motorhomes packed in everywhere, although luckily our neighbours have given us enough room to breathe.
Parking costs €25 a night, and we’re staying for two nights because tomorrow is going to be a big one.
Our First Look at Königssee
Once we'd parked up, we took Frankie and Tilley out for a walk and headed towards Königssee.
We hadn't really planned the walk. In fact, we were barely prepared for it at all. We simply grabbed the dogs, followed a little path and ended up discovering this absolutely beautiful area.
Königssee is stunning.
Surrounded by mountains, pine trees and crystal-clear water, it was one of those places where you stop and think, Wow, we've actually made it here.
There’s a waterfall further along the lake which appears to be accessible by ferry and then a walk, so perhaps that's something we'll investigate another time. But, even just seeing the part of the lake we reached was more than enough. And then, because apparently we're completely normal people, we decided to go for a swim!
Yes, we stripped off and went swimming in our underwear. Sometimes you just have to embrace the moment!
A Very Special Place
There was something quite special about standing there.
Part of the reason is the scenery, but there's also the history attached to this part of Germany. We were now very close to one of the most significant historical sites of the Second World War. Tomorrow we're heading up to the Eagle's Nest, high in the Bavarian Alps.
It's something we've wanted to do for years. In fact, the idea originally goes back to our motorbike touring days. Steven had wanted to visit the area with Suzanne's brother, James, for around 20 years while touring the European battlefields.
Trips, plans and life always seemed to get in the way. Even today, with the tyre problem threatening to derail things once again, it looked like we might not make it. But we did.
And that makes finally arriving here feel even more special.
Cash Is Still King
Today's other little lesson from travelling through Europe?
Bring cash.
We'd already discovered this on previous trips, but it was reinforced again today. Card payments aren't always as straightforward as we're used to in the UK, and sometimes there's a minimum spend.
We even came across a situation where we were just a euro short of the minimum amount needed to pay by card!
So our Touring Ideas tip for today is simple:
Don't rely entirely on your bank card when travelling around Europe. Keep some local cash handy.
You never know when you'll need it.
A Little Bit of Motorhome Maintenance
We also took the opportunity to get ourselves properly sorted.
The fuel tank is full, the fresh-water tank is full, the grey-water tank is empty and the toilet has been emptied and cleaned.
Basically, we're ready to go. Although the toilet-cleaning part isn't exactly the glamorous side of motorhome touring, it has to be done!
We also filled up with fuel in what turned out to be a rather expensive garage near Innsbruck. Of course, after leaving the city we suddenly spotted several garages selling fuel cheaper.
Typical.
You really do have to take your chances sometimes when you're running low.
Tomorrow: The Eagle's Nest
And now for the really exciting bit.
Tomorrow we're heading up to the Eagle's Nest, the historic mountain retreat associated with Adolf Hitler and the Nazi leadership.
The site sits high in the Bavarian Alps and, weather permitting, should give us incredible panoramic views across Germany and Austria.
It's also an important place to visit from a historical perspective.
Berchtesgaden and the surrounding area were a significant Nazi stronghold during the 1930s and Second World War, and the Eagle's Nest has become one of the best-known historical sites in the region.
We're looking forward to seeing it, but we're also very aware that places like this aren't simply tourist attractions. There's a huge amount of history attached to them, and tomorrow will be about taking that in as much as enjoying the spectacular mountain scenery.
Day 12 Done and Dusted
So that's Day 12 complete.
We've travelled from Innsbruck to Berchtesgaden, crossed into Germany, fixed the tyre that had been worrying us, explored Königssee with the dogs, had an impromptu swim, stocked up on supplies and got ourselves ready for tomorrow.
And what a place we've ended up in.
Beautiful mountains, forests, rivers and lakes everywhere you look.
We're not quite halfway through the trip yet, and already we're wondering how we're ever going to go back to reality!
Tomorrow should be another memorable day as we finally get to visit somewhere we've wanted to see for around 20 years.
The Eagle's Nest awaits...
📍 Day 12 at a Glance
Route: Innsbruck, Austria → Berchtesgaden, Germany
Distance: Approximately 120 miles
Stay: Berchtesgaden
Highlights: Königssee, tyre repair, crossing the Austrian/German border, motorhome maintenance and preparing for the Eagle's Nest
Travelling with: Frankie & Tilley 🐾
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